We had just boarded our plane from Washington DC to Miami (where I’m spending the summer) when my boyfriend asked me, “Would you be interested in going to Cartagena?” “In Colombia???” I responded as we fastened our seatbelts. (*To backtrack: We had just come from three days in DC where I attended a special collaboration event between Jose Andres’ Minibar and Ryan Poli’s The Catbird Seat in Nashville.) His birthday was coming up and we were supposed to go sailing, but then due to a tropical storm and unfavorable weather conditions, we had to abort. “Yes, in Colombia,” he replied, before adding a little known fact about the “magical city” that could well be its number one selling point. “Cartagena is only 2.5 hours away from Miami.” For some reason, I thought Colombia was much further, and with that reassurance, without even batting an eyelash– and in the name of spontaneity (alright, fine, Plan B), I responded, “Yes!!!”
And so just several hours after landing in Miami– my boyfriend, his mother and I were on American Airlines flight (there’s only one per day) to… COLOMBIA!!!
Some fast facts: Filipinos don’t need visas but Canadians oddly have to pay “a reciprocity fee” of approximately USD$100 just to enter apparently because of a visa fee that the Canadian government enforced to Colombians when visiting Canada, ouch!) A few other basic things to remember: 1) UBER is the way to go (we’ve had taxi drivers try to rip us off, drive us towards accidental paths, and enforce violence to our concierge!); 2) Tap water isn’t safe to drink— and bottled water at hotels and restaurants are overpriced (tip: buy bottles at supermarkets); 3) The city is generally safe— just be vigilant, as in any other city, of course. And be wary of pickpockets.
The beauty about Cartagena is that it’s compact so you can see a lot even if you only have two or three days to spare. Here’s where we went, ate and shopped– and basked in the beauty of spontaneity! Enjoy! xx
WHERE TO VISIT:
The Old Town/ Walled City
The picture-perfect Cartagena you see in postcards, magazines and movies is the old town– particularly the walled city. Here, the colonial architecture, charming, colorful and quaint restaurants and cafes line cobblestone streets, which are treaded by horse-drawn carriages on a mission to be your vehicle around town. The best travel advice? Wander leisurely and enjoy; savor the moment and go where the wind takes you.
Getsemani
Known as the city’s up and coming hipster neighborhood, Getsemani sits right outside the walled city. Once a haven for crime and prostitution, today it features beautiful colonial architecture, predominant street art, lots of local, Caribbean energy, and is slightly more low-key than the other side.
Bocagrande
The Miami Beach or Copacobana of Cartagena, Bocagrande is lined with five-star luxury hotels with stunning views of the ocean. The views, space and modernity are unparalleled (if you want a breather from the crowds at the Old Town, come for a drink at the rooftop terrace of one of the hotels). Bocagrande has been a popular holiday destination for Colombians since the 1960s.
WHERE TO EAT:
Quero Arepa
Colombian locals now based overseas (David Pardo de Ayala, general manager of Discovery Primea in Manila, Philippines, and Laura Elena, girlfriend of three-Michelin-starred Hertog Jan’s sous chef Jef Poppe in Brugges, Belgium) recommended this place for casual Colombian fare. As the name states, the arepas are the name of he game here., and they come in a variety of flavors. It’s so casual they don’t serve wine (they have beer and mojitos though) and the bill comes handwritten. Order: Mercedes Sosa (Ham, Chorizo, Butifarra, Chicken, Beef, Cheese)
La Cevicheria
The most “recommended” place to eat in Cartagena (from private messages in response to my Instagram stories that I was in the city, to appearing in every “Where To Eat in Cartagena” article, to an unsolicited recommendation from a random guy we bumped into at the elevator) can be credited to the late great Anthony Bourdain who put the seafood restaurant on the map after his visit for his show, “No Reservations.” While it may look casual, the prices don’t come cheap. Order:Peanut Sauce Octopus.
Cande
While not necessarily fine dining, it’s a little more upscale in terms of atmosphere and attire (feel free to come in jeans though) than the previous two. Quintessential Colombian dishes are on hand but there’s also a cultural element in the form of dancers throughout your dinner, and the bill comes with a complimentary guide of the city. Order: Pasta Cartagenera (Beef cooked with red onions, green and red peppers, served with coconut rice and plantains in sweet sauce)
WHERE TO SHOP:
Casa Chiqui
Casa Chiqui is a boutique selling homeware, furniture, clothes and accessories from Colombia, Mexico, Morocco and Bali. The well-curated pieces are of great quality, and also unorthodox (you won’t find them in any other store you walk into) and make for great souvenirs.
St. DOM
For fashionistas, this is the places to visit. St. DOM stocks up high-end womenswear, accessories and home pieces– all by Colombian and Latin designers– like Johanna Ortiz and Mercedes Salazar to name a few; it’s earned rave reviews from Vogue, New York Times and Forbes.
The streets of the Walled City
Just strolling around the old town will have you cross paths with vendors selling everything from cute Colombian headbands to wayuu mochila bags to colorful paintings. Take your pick, but don’t forget to haggle, or say no if a seller is being aggressive.
