If there’s one province in the Philippines that has always fascinated me, it’s Batanes. It’s the northernmost (and also smallest!) island in the Philippines, and just 190 kilometers south of Taiwan. Those who have been there have said that it doesn’t feel like the Philippines, its topography often described as similar to Ireland’s— with lush rolling hills, stunning cliffs and boulder beaches.
A few other facts: Batanes has a population of 16,000; they have zero crime rate; and their history and culture are heavily preserved by their local government. (For example, you’re not even allowed to take their famous coconut crab outside of Batanes.)
The locals are called the Ivatan people. Their culture, and especially their cuisine, are very different from the rest of the Philippines. They are heavily plagued by typhoons, so it’s not a surprise that root crops are quite abundant. Margarita Fores very aptly describes it as “a cuisine born out of need.” Their crops are so different from ours… for instance, the lemon! Look at how big it is– I’ve put my finger there for reference. It’s quite delicate and floral, and not as citrus-y as the lemons we’re used to.
I’ve never been to Batanes so I was thrilled to find out that Fores is showcasing its cuisine at her Grace Park in Rockwell, alongside her former intern, 26-year-old Patsy Abad (she herself is part Ivatan, part Kapampangan), whose family is very involved and influential in Batanes. (Her aunt, the late national artist Pacita Abad built the famous Fundacion Pacita, originally her stone studio that is now Batanes’ most famous hotel-lodge, designed to pay tribute to the family’s Ivatan roots.)
Patsy now helms Fundacion Pacita’s small cafe, Cafe du Tukon, which translates to “cafe on top of the hill.” There could be no better person to describe her culture and people. “Batanes is really a story of people surviving in unpredictable environment with limited resources,” she shares. “I think because of this isolation, the frequent rains and winds, what evolved from this is our unique cultural heritage– great respect for nature and a heavy reliance on social institutions for survival. Almost all aspects of the Ivatan life are anchored on the laws of nature– we plant depending on the phases of the moon, we have certain fishing practices and beliefs that are dependent on the wind direction, our architecture, the food we eat, etc. And also because of this remoteness, we rely heavily on social institutions for collective survival. Community participation and cooperation is a way of life for the Ivatans.”
She brought her province’s native ingredients– literally in her backpack– and is serving some of her cafe’s signature dishes, and some collaborative dishes with Fores in “Grace Park Does Ivatan: Flavors of Batanes” which runs only until this Sunday, December 6, 2015— so check it out NOW if you haven’t already!
Here are a few dishes to expect:
This is the first of Grace Park’s Philippine promotions; they are planning to go from north to south of the country. According to Fores, she intends to do this approximately once every two months.
Grace Park is located at the G/F of One Rockwell, Hidalgo Drive, Makati. For reservations, phone +632 843 7275. It is open daily from 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM, and 6:00 PM to 10:00 PM
