After two long years, I was finally able to travel back to the Philippines for the holidays. Unfortunately, the Omicron variant spread rapidly not too long after, prompting most to stay in and many restaurants to pause operations, but thankfully, just as quickly, cases also went down. I took this time to safely dine out at some of Manila’s most progressive ‘fine-dining’ (this term has evolved but I am using it here just as a category for easier identification) restaurants and check out their latest multi-course/ tasting menu offerings. All I can say is, WOW. Manila, you are spoiled for choice! From Filipino to Western-leaning to plant-based/ vegan– here’s a guide on some of the top chef-forward, produce-focused (mostly local!) tasting menus in the country. *Outdoor seating noted where applicable.

Hapag

Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao are the 3 main island groups in the Philippines. And at Hapag—part of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Essence of Asia collection—they have created a course called LuzViMinda, highlighting a dish from each: mushroom warek warek (Luzon), scallop napoleones (Visayas), crab alavar (Mindanao), presented as if it were the Philippine archipelago.

This is just a glimpse of the thoughtful, savory journey through the Philippines that comes with their 10-course tasting menu (I had the pescatarian), where each dish is a delicious narration of the country’s bounty and heritage.

It’s definitely worth braving the traffic to Quezon City!And I have no doubt that chef-owners Kevin Navoa, Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Villarica will continue to soar while shining the spotlight on all things Philippines and Filipino.

10 courses for P3,800 (inclusive of VAT)

Metronome

There are only a handful of female chefs in the Philippine fine dining realm and Miko Calo is an exceptional force. Quiet elegance coupled with thoughtful precision make each produce-focused plate (from haricot vert to Hokkaido scallops to monkfish cheeks) nothing short of art.

Metronome is a French word, and yes Miko is French-trained (under the late Joël Robuchon himself) but did you know she is originally from Mindanao? Her dishes are also peppered with ingredients from her home province of Agusan del Norte— and I loved learning more about this part of the Philippines from her.

PS She was awarded Chef of the Year 2022 by Tatler Philippines— an incredibly well-deserved feat! And since the pandemic, Metronome has also opened its doors for lunch, serving a more casual bistro fare at one of the most gorgeous dining rooms in town.

10 courses for P6,000 (inclusive of VAT)

Tiago’s

Two new concepts from Extremadura-born chef Carlos Garcia of Black Pig Alabang, both located on the rooftop of Somerset Alabang. Fiddle Leaf, currently an all-day dining continental concept, will soon be completely Spanish-focused, an ode to Garcia’s heritage. Tiago’s, which opened Christmas 2021, is a multi-course/ tasting menu concept, with dishes displaying techniques inspired by the chef’s time at Michelin-starred Gauthier Soho and Restaurant Rousillon in London.

Plant-based will be a strong theme here, as Garcia reveals he has been receiving increased inquiries on vegan and vegetarian dishes. On the ala carte side, the chickpea fries and nori taco topped with beet ‘sashimi’ are outstanding. For their plant-based tasting menu, they will feature salt-baked celeriac with mushroom and cacao ‘soil.’ (*My menu was pescatarian and plant-based.)

It’s wonderful to see Carlos, head chef Jorn Fonseca and executive sous chef Lea Malagamba continuously carving out an exciting Alabang dining landscape!

*We had the Tiago’s menu but dinner set-up was at Fiddle Leaf for outdoor dining purposes.

*Outdoor seating available

7 courses for 3,900; with wine- or cocktail pairing, P5,500

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Toyo Eatery

Toyo Eatery’s— awarded the Best Restaurant in the Philippines by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants from 2019 to 2021– plant-based tasting menu is a progression of our Filipino favorites just without any meat, dairy or seafood. Still the same celebration of the Philippines’ bountiful produce by husband-and-wife tandem Jordy and May Navarra and their team, whom they have wholeheartedly cultivated as family.

Think: our famous tortang talong x pumpkin on a burnt eggplant chip; ginataang langka; our famous banana ketchup….

An array of some of the Philippines’ most important crops: cassava and sweet potato; rice seasoned with tapuey and topped with mustasa; black rice turned to siomai; and different textures of corn— all turned to one-bite wonders.

Also, pay attention to photographer Neal Oshima’s craft beer Brujo, which uses bread crumbs from Panaderya Toyo. (He is opening soon at The Alley at Karrivin, too!)— paired with rice noodles served with gabi leaves braised in coconut milk. And one of our most favorite desserts Bibingka, turned into an incredible cocktail with lambanog and coconut cream!

*One of the most redundant things for me this trip was having to explain (actually, justify!) over and over again why I stopped eating meat over a year ago. “Kawawa ka naman you can’t eat XYZ…” (“Poor you, you can’t eat XYZ.”) I’m not kawawa, I *chose* to stop eating meat. And anyway to everyone who thinks the alternative is just eating lettuce leaves, this plant-based menu from Toyo will absolutely prove otherwise. Seriously, vegan, vegetarian or not— give it a try!

*Outdoor seating available

8 courses for P3,600 (inclusive of VAT); 8 courses (plant-based) for P2,900 (inclusive of VAT);  4 courses for P1,900 (Tuesday to Friday only; inclusive of VAT); Cocktail pairing P1,500 for 5 beverages

Metiz

Filipino— front and center— is the cuisine at Metiz, regardless of the French-Filipino, and Colombian heritage of husband-and-wife tandem chef Stephan Duhesme and Karen Urriago Ramos, who runs both the front-and back-of house.

Think of Metiz as a neo-bistro— six memorable courses, low-intervention/ natural wines, cocktails that continue to celebrate Filipino heritage.

Produce is local through and through— sourced from different parts from the Philippines, crafted into dishes are both creative and technique-driven, yet still incredibly approachable.

Ubod and squash ginataan with whipped smoked tuyo plays on the elements of hot and cold. Lumpia is done here with a crispy sourdough wrapper with kasuy fruit-glazed grilled eggplant as its main filling. And the best tempeh I’ve ever tried in my life— turned into a refried black bean stew and served with guisadong buro (This dish is vegan.) Octopus is served with a smoked bangus sauce and fermented langka. You get the trajectory. (Also, here, the palate cleanser of local fruits is served as the first course.)

Metiz is big on fermentation— each dish will have some element of it— don’t forget to check out their fermentation cabinets at the back of the restaurant, really interesting stuff!

*Outdoor seating available

7 courses for P2,900

Gallery by Chele

When Gallery by Chele opened in 2013, it was one of only a handful of restaurants offering tasting menus that proudly spotlighted Filipino ingredients and dishes at the time, and was one of the first Philippine restaurants that made it to the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Over the years, Torrelavega-born executive chef Chele Gonzalez (who’s now totally Pinoy by heart!) and Manila-born executive sous chef Carlos Villaflor, have led a very solid team– dexterously executing multi-course menus that are compendiums of their journeys around the Philippines. The evolution is constant, and even if you’ve been here once, or countless of times, the experience is always special.

You can choose between 5 courses or 9 courses, and they also offer a plant-based tasting menu. (*Mine was a hybrid of pescatarian, vegetarian and vegan). The wine-pairing program, led by husband-and-wife tandem Cyril and Pierre Addison, introduced me to boutique wines I’d not yet encountered (I much prefer these over commercial and commercially-rated wines during wine-pairings)

AND, the journey starts with a seasonal umami-laden Proclamation Gin cocktail– honey-infused shiitake mushrooms, lemon juice and fresh basil from Gallery’s garden. TRY it! Just ask for the Proclamation shiitake cocktail!

*Outdoor seating available

5 courses for P2,950; vegetarian, P2.200; cocktail pairing add P1,000; wine-pairing, add P1,800; non-alcoholic pairing add P650

9 courses for P3,950; vegetarian, P2,995; cocktail pairing add P1,600; wine-pairing add P2,600; cocktail and wine pairing add P2,400; non-alcoholic pairing, add P995

Helm

The sole new Philippine entry on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ 50 Best Discovery series for 2021– Helm by Josh Boutwood.

The British-Filipino chef is ultra-creative yet technical, cerebral and precise, which is very much reflected on his menu: currently a return to the monochromatic, color blocks, where each color corresponds to a dish.

But while my purple was a porridge of adlai cooked in ube served with local octopus; my green— Japanese cucumbers compressed in roasted sesame oil, raw tuna and avocado; and my orange— coho salmon with curry leaf, roasted carrot, crab fat and tomato— the beauty about this menu is that yours may not necessarily be the same, an adept maneuver by Boutwood to address the availability (or lack of) of produce.

While Boutwood has a solid team, he is 1000% hands on, on quite literally, everything! This powerhouse currently has 3 restaurants (Helm, Savage and Test Kitchen) and will be opening 2 more later this year!

*Outdoor seating available

8 to 12 courses (depending on the theme) for P5,800 (inclusive of VAT); Wine pairing P2,400 (inclusive of VAT)